Sunday, September 9, 2007

The zoo known as the pier and dawn patrol numero tres

A quick shot I took this morning between sets I swear! Click on the image to get the full effect

I moezied on out to the pier again at 6:00 this morning, and was greeted with a beautifully illuminated horizon and glassy 2-4ft surf. I walked up the boardwalk and peaked my head over the first dune and saw an almost empty line up, so I charged on out there. I would catch a wave, paddle back out, wait 30 seconds, catch another one, over and over again, with almost no one there! After about an hour of surfing, every skin head, wanna-be rasta, general kook and their brother were all out there to get a piece of the peeling perfection. I started getting cut off a lot, and whe I did get a wave, I was just trying to avoid people and couldn't ravage the waves i do oh so swell hahaha not. I tried my luck further up the beach where there were less crowds, and resumed my destruction for the rest of the morning. This was a great day and this swell couldn't have had a better conclusion, nor this paragraph. cheers

1 comment:

BipolarBunny said...

That is a beutiful picture.